I’m an American living in Edinburgh. Here are 6 of my favorite underrated places to explore.
In a captivating exploration of Edinburgh, an American expat shares her personal journey and highlights a selection of underrated spots that offer a unique perspective on Scotland’s capital. Since moving to the city in 2021, she has immersed herself in both the well-trodden tourist trails and the hidden gems that often go unnoticed. While iconic landmarks like Arthur’s Seat and the Royal Mile are certainly must-sees, the author emphasizes the beauty and tranquility of lesser-known locations such as Cramond Island and the Pentland Hills. Cramond Island, accessible via a tidal causeway, provides an adventurous escape where visitors can explore wartime bunkers and enjoy stunning coastal views. Similarly, the Pentland Hills, just a short drive from the city center, offer a 62-mile network of trails perfect for hikers of all levels, presenting a serene alternative to the more crowded Arthur’s Seat.
The author also delves into Edinburgh’s vibrant food and drink scene, suggesting that visitors should venture beyond whisky tastings to experience the city’s burgeoning gin culture. With Scotland producing about 70% of the UK’s gin, local distilleries such as Edinburgh Gin and Lind & Lime provide immersive tours and tastings that showcase the innovative craft behind these spirits. Additionally, the article highlights the charming neighborhood of Stockbridge, known for its proximity to nature and bustling markets, where locals can enjoy fresh produce and artisanal goods. The culinary landscape in Leith is also worth noting, with restaurants like Eleanore and Barry Fish offering contemporary Scottish cuisine that elevates traditional dishes to new heights.
Finally, the author encourages exploration of Edinburgh’s rich history through its ancient closes and underground vaults, which reveal a haunting yet fascinating narrative of the city’s past. These hidden pathways and vaults, often overlooked by tourists, provide a glimpse into the darker side of Edinburgh’s history, steeped in tales of crime and ghostly lore. By sharing her personal favorites and insights, the author not only showcases the beauty of Edinburgh but also invites readers to experience the city through a local’s eyes, discovering its charm beyond the typical tourist attractions. Whether it’s hiking in nature, indulging in innovative cuisine, or exploring the city’s haunted history, Edinburgh offers a wealth of experiences waiting to be uncovered.
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As an American living in Edinburgh, I think there are a variety of underrated places to explore.
Byjeng/Shutterstock
In 2021, my husband and I moved from the
United States to Scotland
.
I’ve loved living in Edinburgh and exploring popular tourist destinations, like Arthur’s Seat.
But over the years, I’ve curated a list of underrated recommendations, too, like Cramond Island.
When I first moved from the US to Edinburgh in 2021, I knew little about the city beyond its striking medieval architecture, whisky distilleries, and supposedly dreary weather.
Four years — and far more sunshine than expected — later, I’ve fallen in love with Scotland’s capital and all it has to offer.
Although popular spots like the Royal Mile, Arthur’s Seat, and
Edinburgh Castle
are worth seeing, here are six places I think are just as worthy of a visit.
In addition to Arthur’s Seat, I recommend hiking the nearby Pentland Hills and Blackford Hill.
One of my favorite places to hike is the Pentland Hills, located less than an hour from Edinburgh.
EvaGZ/Shutterstock
Arthur’s Seat
, an ancient, extinct volcano, is a defining landmark of Edinburgh’s skyline and often tops lists of must-see attractions.
Although I love its ridge walk and summit hikes, I think it tends to overshadow its equally striking and lesser-known neighbors: the Pentland Hills and Blackford Hill.
I gravitate toward the Pentlands, which offer about a 62-mile network of trails for a range of abilities, less than an hour from the city center.
Blackford Hill also presents itself as a less-crowded but equally scenic alternative to Arthur’s Seat, complete with wooded walking trails through a nature reserve and sweeping views, all about 20 minutes from downtown.
I love walking across the sea to Cramond Island.
I recommend double-checking the tide chart to ensure you have enough time to return to the mainland.
Carinne Geil Botta
One of my favorite parts of
living in Edinburgh
is how easy it is to access nature, and Cramond Island serves as a peaceful coastal escape from the bustle of the city.
Just northwest of the city center, Cramond Island is connected to the shore of Edinburgh via a tidal causeway, allowing individuals to walk across the Firth of Forth to this island during low tide.
I always recommend this unique experience, and think it’s a great opportunity to explore Cramond’s rugged terrain and scattered wartime bunkers while basking in the picturesque views.
Just make sure to check the tide chart beforehand to ensure you have enough time to return to the mainland.
If you’re tired of whisky, I think it’s worth touring the capital’s acclaimed gin distilleries.
I’ve enjoyed going on gin distillery tours.
Carinne Geil Botta
Although whisky might be Scotland’s most famous drink, fewer people may know that the country is also a major gin producer, responsible for about 70% of the UK’s gin.
Two of my favorite local distilleries are Edinburgh Gin and Lind & Lime, which both offer beautifully designed and immersive tours and tastings.
I especially enjoy Edinburgh Gin’s rhubarb and ginger liqueur and appreciate Lind & Lime’s emphasis on sustainability and organic ingredients in crafting their signature
London Dry
.
Stockbridge is one of my favorite parts of town.
I love visiting Stockbridge, especially because of its proximity to nature, markets, and galleries.
canvast/Shutterstock
Although Stockbridge has become a popular neighborhood in northern Edinburgh thanks to its
charming village feel
and selection of shops and boutiques, as a local, I think there’s much more to this area than travelers may realize.
For example, I love how easy it is to access nature — whether it’s taking in skyline views from Inverleith Park, strolling through the Royal Botanic Garden, or trail running along the Water of Leith, a 22-mile river that winds through the city.
One of my favorite weekend routines is visiting the Stockbridge Market on Sundays to stock up on
fresh flowers
, artisanal goods, and produce from local vendors.
And while you’re in the area, I also think it’s worth exploring the plethora of art galleries, such as the Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art, which showcases some of the best contemporary Scottish art in the city, in my opinion.
I think the Leith neighborhood showcases some of the finest modern Scottish cuisine.
At Eleanore, I had a delicious cod dish with creamed spinach.
Carinne Geil Botta
When people think of Scottish cuisine, traditional dishes like haggis, fish and chips, and sticky toffee pudding may come to mind.
Although these classics are arguably delicious, I think
Edinburgh’s food scene
has evolved far beyond them, with the buzzy neighborhood of Leith helping to lead the way.
I always recommend dining at Eleanore, a family-run restaurant known for its innovative, artfully presented small plates, as well as its sister restaurants, Ardfern and The Little Chartroom.
My favorite 2025 opening, Barry Fish, is nestled along Leith’s Shore and boasts sublime seafood. From their signature pastrami to a lobster and smoked fish agnolotti, I think every dish is outstanding.
And for quicker bites, I always stop by Alby’s — an Edinburgh institution beloved by locals and visitors alike — for its flavorful focaccia sandwiches.
I recommend wandering through Old Town’s ancient closes and underground vaults to better understand the city’s haunted history.
Carinne Geil Botta
Many visitors don’t realize that Edinburgh has a hidden “underground city,” a maze of vaults beneath Old Town that dates back centuries.
Originally used for storage, the vaults were later associated with disease, crime, and ghostly lore — all of which contribute to Edinburgh’s reputation as one of the most haunted cities in the world.
The city is also home to more than 250 narrow medieval alleyways, or “closes,” most of which are located off the Royal Mile. Some notable ones include Advocate’s, Bakehouse, Old Fishmarket, and
The Real Mary King’s Close
, each of which carries its own history.
The history of both the vaults and closes offers a haunting glimpse into Edinburgh’s layered and often overlooked past — one I believe is worth exploring.
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